Expert Vinyl & Paint Removal
If you would like to know how I remove old boat names and prepare the hull for a new name, please read on …
Peeling off vinyl lettering
Vinyl lettering that is not very old and still has some elasticity can be carefully peeled from the surface of your boat. I use a plastic blade (or my fingernail) to curl up one of the edges so I can grab it with my fingers. (NEVER use a steel razor blade to remove vinyl from gelcoat – you will definitely mar the hull). The lettering is then peeled off very slowly and at a sharp angle. The key to peeling vinyl is to do it much slower than you would think. If the vinyl rips – you are going too fast.
In some cases, a heat gun can be useful for warming up the vinyl and softening the adhesive for peeling the lettering off. If you heat the vinyl too much, it will become to soft and rip. Some people try to use a heat gun and scraper. I find this method to be messy slow. As someone who removes lettering on a weekly basis, I almost never use a heat gun.
Solvents are another method that I almost never use for removing the vinyl from a boat hull. There are special products from sign suppliers that can be sprayed on to soften vinyl before peeling which work well, but I do not recommend using other solvents (acetone, paint thinner, etc) to remove vinyl. It just ends up as a big mess and there are more effective and efficient tools for the job …
Vinyl that is old, cracked and deteriorated can’t be peeled. This is usually when people reach for the heat gun or solvents. My tool of choice for this situation is a rubber striping removal wheel. These “eraser” wheels can effectively roll off even crusty old vinyl without damaging the gelcoat. However, be prepared to use plenty of elbow grease because the eraser wheels can be difficult to use without the right technique. I use a “close quarters” drill for better leverage – and I limit the rotational speed of the wheel so it does not spin too fast and burn the surface.
Painted Name Removal
Some types of painted names can be removed with solvents. I have had good luck using a simple water-based citrus glue remover (and a lot of elbow grease) to remove most painted names. Depending on what kind of paint was used, I could use a more aggressive solvent – but I have rarely had luck with things like acetone or mineral spirits. More likely, I would go straight to the wet sanding phase (see below).
Shadowing or ghost Images left by the old name?
Regarding the shadow left by the old name, there are a few things to consider. It may not be possible to remove 100% of the shadow, but it should be possible to get most of it. Also, the application of the new name will have stronger contrast against the hull and as such will make the shadow less apparent to the eye once the new name is on.
Here’s why the staining occurs – and how I deal with it…
There has been a lot of discussion about the cause of gelcoat shadowing left by old vinyl lettering and paint. Some have argued that the adhesive may be partially absorbed into the semi porous gelcoat. I think that there is some truth to this idea, but I don’t think it tells the whole story. In my experience, darker vinyl will have a greater stain than lighter colors – even though they both use the same adhesive. I believe that the deeper stains left by dark lettering may indicate a burning of the gelcoat from the higher temperatures. Gelcoat is known to burn from high heat. Over time, even the additional heat from dark lettering can causes a permanent chemical change that can sometimes go all the way through the gelcoat layer. However the effect is strongest toward the surface and can be improved with wet sanding.
Another thing that often causes a shadow to appear is actually reverse of the above problem. The old boat name can actually protect the hull from fading underneath the letters – while the rest of the hull lightens in color from the bleaching effect of the sun and marine elements. In fact, the hull around the letters can even erode – leaving an raised/embossed image of the old name carved out of the gelcoat. (see wet sanding below). When combined, the staining from letters and bleaching of the surrounding hull can leave a very strong shadow.
Wet Sanding
After I have removed a vinyl or painted name (which has been on the hull for a long time) I almost always follow the initial removal with wet sanding. Wet sanding will remove the oxidized layer on the hull – taking any shallow stains with it. I usually start at around 800 grit and follow up with 1000. With really old chalky hulls, I have even started lower. However, this process must be done with extreme caution since the gelcoat layer is only several millimeters thick. It may not be possible to wet sand out all of the deeper stains. Wet sanding also evens out the embossed gelcoat image mentioned above – and creates a uniform sheen which further minimizes the shadow left by the old name.
Secret Ingredient
After the wet sanding, I like to follow up by sponging on some of my secret ingredient – toilet bowl cleaner. It’s important to do this before compounding the hull because the gelcoat is still relatively porous at this stage. The toilet bowl cleaner can be left on for 15 minutes or longer and will soak into the gelcoat. This will usually improve some of the deep staining.
Polishing the Hull
The hull should be then be polished with a high speed buffer and a medium grit compound – followed by a final polishing with a fine compound to put a mirror shine on the gelcoat.
Now, it’s ready for the new name
After compounding (and BEFORE waxing), I will wipe down the hull with alcohol and apply the new vinyl name.
Protect it with Wax
Once the name is on, the hull should receive a couple of layers of wax for protection. Regularly waxing the hull on your boat will keep it from absorbing stains and minimize deterioration of the gelcoat from weathering (which causes much of this problem in the first place).
So there you have it. Maybe more info than you needed, but if you are tackling this job yourself, I hope this helps 🙂
